Inspection directions - Off Duty, Automotive - Navy Times

Inspection directions

Buying a used vehicle can be a smart move, but you’ll need to look out for some potholes in the road. That SUV you’re eyeing may be perfect for going off-road, but you’ll pay a ton for tires. The mileage on that car is so low, it’s practically brand new — or is it?

These are things to think about before you decide on a car and the signs that you should walk away. Rapidly.

Smart shopping

Try to shop when you don’t have to. Many people make the mistake of “emergency shopping,” finding themselves in need of wheels and feeling pressured to buy something. Try to anticipate the need for a vehicle and shop at your leisure.

Each used car is an individual. Condition is at least as important as price — arguably even more so. It’s smart to have any used car you’re serious about inspected by a mechanic or shop you trust.

Research the rep. While relatively few late-model cars are out-and-out lemons, some do cost more to maintain, or need maintenance more often, than other cars in their class.

Will it pass emissions tests? In areas where a successful emissions check is required to register a car, be sure the vehicle will pass emissions before you buy it. If the seller is willing to knock the price down to allow for what it’s going to cost you to get the car through smog, you’ll be much happier with the deal.

Some used cars are better than others. You can get information about prior recalls and major known defects from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration’s searchable database, www.recalls.gov/nhtsa.html. Consumer Reports is a great resource for detailed information about any vehicle model’s overall record for upkeep costs and problems reported by owners. Go to www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/index.htm.

Ask for a vehicle history report. This could show any wrecks or unusual situations in a car’s background, and many dealers are willing to provide them.

Red flags

Unusually high — or low — mileage. Most of the time, low mileage is a good thing. Still, be wary of any vehicle with mileage that’s unusually low for its age; it could be odometer fraud. Or the car could be a mess from years of sitting. Cars with very high mileage may be ex-rental or “fleet” cars — not necessarily a bad thing, but miles on the odometer equal wear and tear. It’s normal for a car to clock 10,000-12,000 miles a year.

The ‘as is’ disclaimer. When you see “as is” on a bill of sale, be aware that most any problem that crops up after you take possession is going to be your problem. Exceptions do exist for misrepresentation, which can involve fraud. But be aware that even if you’re in the right, getting your money back can still be a huge hassle and expense.

“I’m selling it for a friend.” What you’re probably dealing with here is a “curbstoner” — a person who buys and sells cars after a quick detailing and possibly lots of Bondo and Motor Honey thrown in to mask a rotting shell and tired engine. Curbstoners sell cars that dealers wouldn’t go near, often because of questionable titles. When you notice that theirs isn’t the name on the paperwork, they quickly explain it’s “a friend’s car.” Walk away.

It’s already ‘warmed up’ for your test drive. Never buy a used car you haven’t been able to start after it’s been sitting overnight. Many mechanical problems either show up or are much worse at cold start. A worn-out engine may clatter or smoke excessively when it’s first started. These could be signs of major underlying problems.

‘Buy here, pay here.’ Be leery of dealers who advertise “buy here, pay here” financing. Shop for your financing from a credit union or reputable bank, and get it lined up before you start shopping.

The test drive

If possible, test-drive several of the same makes and models before you commit to one; this will give you a better feel for what’s “normal” for the car or truck, which in turn may help you avoid buying the one that has a problem. Here’s what to do:

• Look closely at the entire exterior; look for body panels that don’t align correctly, as well as evidence of paint overspray on rubber trim around windows and doors. Body panel alignment on modern cars is extremely close; if it’s not, be suspicious that the car was in an accident.

• Pop the trunk and smell the carpet (do this inside the cabin, too). If you smell a moldy odor, the car leaks at a minimum and may have flood damage. Water damage is not worth messing with. Pass on this car.

• Pay special attention to the oil pressure, temperature and volt gauges. A high or low reading or fluctuating needle could hint at big problems.

• Make sure the “check engine” light comes on at initial start-up and then quickly goes out. If it doesn’t come on at all — or it stays on — there could be expensive issues with the emissions controls.

• On a straight section of road, briefly relax your grip on the steering wheel to see whether the car tracks straight. If it doesn’t, at minimum, it needs an alignment, but it could have more expensive suspension issues.

• Accelerate to about 45 mph on a straight section of road and apply the brakes firmly. The vehicle should stop straight and remain in control. If you feel a mushy pedal or vibration or the vehicle seems to take overly long to stop, it likely needs brake work. Maybe more.

• The engine or transmission should not make any weird or excessively loud noises.

• Be sure to operate all accessories, such as power windows, locks, cruise control, the stereo and the air conditioning system.

• Listen to your spider sense. If something doesn’t feel right or sound right, it probably isn’t right.