Bike buyer’s guide: Cranks, chainrings and bottom bracket; pedals; derailleurs; chain; brakes - Off Duty, Sports, Hunting, Fishing - Navy Times

Bike buyer’s guide: Cranks, chainrings and bottom bracket; pedals; derailleurs; chain; brakes

Cranks, chainrings and bottom bracket

These come as a package, and spending money here buys lightweight, long-lasting, maintenance-free cranking.

Cranks are the arms that transfer power from the pedal to the chainrings. Stiffer crank arms transmit more power to the drive train. Bottom brackets contain the bearings that a crank’s axle spins on. Higher-end bottom brackets contain better bearings that roll with less resistance, making you and your bike more efficient. Chainrings are judged by their durability in two ways: The teeth should not dull or snap under the load from the chain, and they should be able to resist a little abuse while getting over rocks and logs without bending. The stronger the aluminum alloy, the stronger the chainrings. Look for differences in chainring design, such as ramping of the teeth, meant to allow for smoother shifting.

Pedals

Paying for pedals means getting pedals that are made with high-quality bearings and an axle that won’t give — transferring 100 percent of your pedaling power to the bike.

Platform pedals are simple, double-sided flat pedals found on recreational bikes. Easy and cheap. Clipless pedals allow you to push down and pull up at the same time on either side. They’re expensive, and they have to be used with bike shoes designed specifically for that pedal. They have a release system that lets you snap out if things get hairy. Clip pedals are old-school, slide-in-style cages that won’t release during an accident. They hold your foot on the pedal — offering the efficiency of clipless pedals but adding the thrill of a possible hospital visit. Hybrid pedals have a platform on one side and clipless setup on the other. It’s a convenience that lets you ride your clipless-equipped bike without donning clipless shoes.

Derailleurs

The derailleurs are the most complicated parts of the bike. You’re paying for crisp and accurate shifting from one gear to another. You’re also paying for a system that won’t need a lot of adjustment to operate cleanly and for durability that will survive a few wrecks without a trip to the bike shop for repair or replacement. How many gears do you need? As many as you want to deal with. Keep in mind, the fewer gears you have, the less you’ll have to worry about when it comes to keeping your derailleurs properly adjusted.

Chain

Cost here translates into weight savings, durability and performance. Of minor concern is the type of master link found on the chain. This might come into play if you work on your own bike. Some chains use a clip in the master link and can be broken down without a tool for maintenance, a convenience that lets you spend more time riding and less time in the garage during major services. Other chains will require a chain tool to break them apart for deep cleaning. Plan on dropping $15 to $30 for a chain tool if you go this route.

Brakes

V-brakes vs. cable-actuated disc brakes: These are the new standards. V-brakes are generally lighter, less expensive, less complicated to maintain and fine for recreational riders. Cable-actuated disc systems have more stopping power and are more reliable under more conditions, and they’re more important for performance-minded riders. Your bike likely will be set up for either, so choose wisely at the outset. Hydraulic disc brakes are the most expensive and highest performing, allowing infinite control of braking power with excellent feel. Way-old-school U-brakes should be found only on the cheapest kids’ bikes. Craigslist-special 1990s models may come with cantilever brakes, which have more stopping power than U-brakes but require lots of adjustment.